A few thoughts on my 2 trips to Baikal

by Scott Gilmour

In 2017 as I was skiing the Kungsleden with Rob Trigwell and the idea was mooted that we should attempt a crossing of Lake Baikal. From this initial and very brief discussion it somehow progressed to a speed attempt, for what is recognised a a full traverse from Kultuk to Niznheangarsk.

Rob had designs on Baikal for some years previously and his longstanding ambition was to complete an unsupported crossing. In 2016 Rob attended one of the Polar Training Courses I organised and he performed incredibly well. Despite at times looking like a rag-and-bone man on skis!

Enter Michael Stevenson in 2017. Mike was well known to me from his time on the Spine®. He was looking for some new challenges and like Rob, decided that the Arctic was an irresistible playground. Like Rob before him, Mike joined us in Swedish Lapland and proved himself so capable he has worked with us ever since.

In terms of planning it appeared quite straightforward. Expedition prep focused on cold weather travel and additional consideration was given to the ice; how to travel quickly and camp efficiently.

Our first speed attempt (2018) was during quite a cold and at times windy year. Big mistake at the start was not allowing ourselves enough time to fully shake off the jet lag. The first 24hrs proved more challenging than they should have been. Despite this we achieved a respectable distance, but felt we could’ve done better.

After a while on any long expedition or trip you fall in to a steady rhythm and routine, barring anything unexpected, obviously.

Our target time was anything below the 13d 16hrs set by Kevin Vallely and Razy Zahab in 2010.

As we approached the end we realised that to really make the record our own we wanted to put a 12 first. To achieve this we pushed for over 42hrs with very little sleep. We pushed through cold and windy darkness, staggering in to Niznheangarsk in 12d 21hrs and 13m. A new record.

2019, Rob was scheduled to join us but due to last minute commitments he was unable to participate. Leaving it to me and Mike. Rinse and repeat or so we thought.

We arrived a little earlier in Irkutsk to synchronise our clocks a little better.

Much milder conditions in the start made the experience a little different on the previous year. It was this additional warmth that caused a sudden onset of blisters. Both of us suffered from the first day with our feet.

We toughed out a further 4/5 days as a pair with Mike really suffering with pain, which was exacerbated by an infection in his feet. Uncomfortable stuff really. I must make a point here, Mike’s foot care is second to none. The hard pace we were setting, as well as the hard surface weren’t helping.

Mike had to stop, I could continue. It was as simple as it was disappointing for us both. We studied the map and found a small local settlement which Mike could make on his own, said our goodbyes and continued on.

From this point I carried all of the team equipment on my own. Imagine the largest single man tent in the world, it really was a palace. After all it was designed to comfortably house 4. It did weigh a lot though, and with the addition of the numerous ice screws and spares it weighed even more.

I pressed on and about 60 or so kilometers North of Olkhon I started to experience the snow once again. This time quite a large amount of fresh powder. At times this was very labour intensive. I remember periods of counting steps to 20 before needing a break. This, and the fact that I had opted for snowshoes (not skis) led to my tendinitis. Thankfully my blisters had recovered but my left leg was very sore.

I still had 140km to go and having come this far I was reluctant to stop. So it was a case of warming up, not wearing a snowshoe on my left leg (just my right) and pressing on. Surprisingly I was able to maintain a similar pace.

That was until I reached the town of Severobaikalsk (roughly 25km from the finish). Suddenly I couldn’t put any weight on my left leg. Pretty devastating, as I’d come a long way. I sat on my pulk, looking forlorn in to the distance for about 30 minutes before I decided to act.

I couldn’t give up. So i tried walking backwards, in the right direction, and I was starting to make some progress. After about an hour of this and using a crude form of sign language to explain what I was doing to a gallery of locals ice fishing, I was able to turn around and proceed with some caution.

I completed the expedition in 11d 15hrs and 28 minutes, once again establishing a new record.

Post the exped my leg was ruined and I had a 36hr train journey to enjoy. Thankfully, I had 2 wonderful Russian bunk mates who looked after me like a friend. I’ll forever be grateful to their kindness. Eugene greeted me in Irkutsk with crutches, helped me off the train and took care of me. All in all a wonderful experience.

My only gripe is that I believe it can be achieved under 10 days without skates or sail. Will I go back one last time? Maybe… I do love Baikal.

2018 Lake Baikal Expedition Team Left to Right: Michael Stevenson, Scott Gilmour & Rob Trigwell